12 Tips For Working With Sequined Fabrics

Sequined fabric can add a little glitz and glamour to your sewing project, whether it's an appliqué on a skirt, a fun throw pillow or a full sequin dress. But the fabric does have some quirks that can make it a little tricky to work with if you're not used to it. From choosing the right fabric and the right pattern to tailoring and sewing your project, check out these pro tips for sewing with sequins!

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1. What fabric do you use?

There are many types of sequined fabrics. Some materials have sequins sewn together in specific patterns, which may sometimes include lace or embroidery, beading, and other embellishments. Some fabrics are sewn with more random patterns of sequins, while others use glue to attach the sequins to the fabric. Each of these materials is slightly different, but all should be handled with care so as not to damage the sequins or underlying fabric. When shopping for fabric, pay attention to how the sequins are attached, as this can affect your future work.

2. Does your fabric have naps?

"Raising" in a fabric refers to whether there is a distinct directional pattern to the fibers, or in this case, decoration. This is easiest to see on "mermaid" fabrics. The material has a row of sequins sewn loosely around one edge in a layered pattern that resembles fish scales. These sequins are sometimes a different color on each side, so you can brush the fabric with your hand and change the color by changing the orientation of the sequins. If you don't want adjacent panels to be different colors, or have their sequins oriented in opposite directions, you should definitely consider this nap when laying out your pattern.

3. Choose the right pattern

When you're making clothes with sequined fabric, you need to make sure you choose a pattern that's perfect for it. Lots of darts, folds, or intricate seamlines can be especially tricky to work on with sequins, and you may find they make the finished product look overly cumbersome. Stick to clean, straight lines that are easy to execute flawlessly and bring out the sequins to the fullest. If you're not sure if your garment is made entirely of sequined material, consider using it as an embellishment, embellishment or applique for a bold fashion statement without all the glitter.

4. Mark your seamlines

Sometimes in sewing, it's enough to know how wide your seam allowance should be and deduce your seam from there. Basically, all you have to do is line up the edges of the fabric at the appropriate marks on the sewing machine and keep it there. However, with sequined fabrics, you'll also need to mark your seams. Starting at the back of the fabric, trace the edges of the pattern and any other structural marks with tailor's chalk or vanishing ink. If your pattern already contains seam allowances, you will need to remove your pattern and mark your seam line within the thread you have traced. If you need to add seam allowances, you will need to measure from the edge of the pattern and mark the edge of the seam allowance. Alternatively, you can use the dual tracking wheel to mark both at the same time,

5. Remove as much sequins as possible

The reason you want to mark the seam lines of your project is so you can clear the seam path. Mark the seam on the wrong side of the fabric, use the needle and contrasting thread to paint along the line. This will make it visible on the right side of the fabric and easy to remove before you actually start sewing.

With the stitches marked, it's time to remove the sequins. If they are sewn on, be sure to cut the sequins yourself, not the thread that holds them, unless you plan to remove the entire sequin thread. A pair of delicate pointed scissors, and maybe even a pair of tweezers, will come in handy for this kind of work. If your sequins are stuck in place, don't try to remove them. Many are heat fused to the fibers beneath them, and trying to remove them can damage your material.

Clear a path along your stitch line, following your basting stitch line. Once that's clear, move on to your seam allowance. Removing the sequins here will reduce the volume, make it easier to finish the edges if you like, and prevent the inside of unlined garments from itching.

6. Handling the beads

Does your sequin decoration contain beads that could interfere with your stitching? Just like with sequins, you need to remove them before you start sewing, and as with sequins, you'll want to avoid cutting the thread that holds them in place unless you plan to sew the rest of the beads back by hand. Instead, place your fabric on a hard surface, such as a cutting board (if you're concerned about stains, put down a cloth) and lightly apply Scotch tape over the beaded areas that need to be removed. Break the beads with a small hammer and gently remove the tape. The threads should remain intact and the broken beads should be attached to the tape.

7. Use special scissors

An amazing pair of cloth scissors is one of the most prized possessions of a sewing machine. Don't take chances with sequin material! Keep a cheaper (and less expensive) pair of scissors for cutting materials with plastic trim, or other non-fabric items you may need to cut or trim. Replace or sharpen these scissors when they become dull - while you don't want to use the best scissors on plastic, dull scissors can damage your material.

8. Cut one layer at a time

The sequins are slippery! When you cut out your dailies, cut only one layer at a time. If your layout recommends cutting multiple pieces at once, remember to flip those pattern pieces to account for changes when cutting the second layer. For best results, use pattern weights instead of pins, which can be difficult to negotiate in sequin material. Be careful when cutting. Wayward sequins tend to fly when cut.

9. Have extra needles on hand

When you sew sequins, you may break the needle. It's just the fact that it works. Of course, you can limit this by carefully removing the sequins from the stitching, but that's not always possible. With glued sequins, you can't avoid stitching them. For this material, increase your needle strength to a heavy-duty or denim-type needle designed to penetrate tough materials. However, even these needles can break, so be sure to have a few extras on hand while you work. Stitch slowly, noting any bending or other deformity of the needle. If you find any damage, please replace it in time.

10. Be careful when pressing!

Sequin fabrics are difficult to iron. Not only are they lumpy because of all the trimmings, but all the trimmings melt easily. Avoid pressing on the sequins as much as possible, opting instead to press the seam with your fingers. If you must press, use the low temperature setting, press the cloth, and press from the wrong side of the fabric.

11. Hand Retouching

With all the sequins removed, you may find your project has some bare spots once you've finished assembling it. Cut the thread holding the sequins to a piece of fabric and set the excess sequins aside. Once your project is complete, use these extras and hand stitch them into your project to fill in any gaps. You can do the same with beads that may be sewn next to the sequins. If your sequins are sewn to the appliqué, like some sheer special occasion fabrics (like tulle or chiffon), you'll want to remove any appliqués that may be overlapping the seam. Once your seams are in place, set them aside and stitch them by hand, overlapping your seams to match the layout of the decals.

12. Take good care of your project

The sequin material is exquisite. Whether sequins are sewn on, glued on, or attached to a decal, they're not great for throwing in the washer or dryer. Please pay careful attention to the care instructions on the fabric bolts when purchasing. Some sequined fabrics can be hand washed -- actually hand washed, not on the "hand wash" setting of the machine -- and drip dry, but most require dry cleaning. Don't try to avoid this, or you might find your washing machine full of sequins and your carefully stitched projects looking bald!