7 tips for sewing sequined fabrics
Oct 17, 2022
Sequined fabrics are the peacock of the fabric world. So pretty, so gorgeous, so irresistible. I've sewed with it a few times and it's not without its challenges. There are already plenty of great sequin sewing tips that have helped me on my journey, but I think it's worth spending my two cents on what works for me and where I'm frustrated.
First, determine if your fabric is stretchy. Sequined fabrics can be stretchy (hello ice dance outfits!) or not, and you'll want to choose a pattern accordingly. Sequins are much larger than regular fabrics, so you'll also want to choose simple shapes that don't have too many pattern pieces. (This will also help you get tip two.)
For example, instead of opting for a dress pattern with a princess stitch, opt for a style like the Mesa dress, which is simple front and back with no slack (check out my sequined Mesa dress). For singles, you can try one of my styles - Lou Box Top or Nita Wrap Skirt. Both successfully passed the sequin test. On Instagram last month, Victoria shared a sequined Lou Box top that was literally to die for. It's a very simple shape with just two pattern pieces, and I have instructions on how to arrange it here. I made a Nita wrap dress in sequined fabric last month and shared the specific tips here.
2) Including lining
As someone who hasn't worn a lot of sequined fabrics, I never realized before that sequins are really harsh and uncomfortable. When sewing your own clothes, you need to choose a pattern that includes a lining or add a lining to the pattern.
3) Take care of your equipment
Sequins are nasty little bugs that dull any blade. So, use an old pair of scissors to cut the cloth and never use your serger. At the suggestion of By Hand London, I used a leather needle to stitch directly through the sequins. I've had no problems piercing the fabric with a leather needle.
Bonus tip: If your sequined fabric has stretch, remember to use stitches that also have stretch. (But again, don't use a serger.) I used a narrow zigzag stitch and it worked fine.
4) There will be sequins. everywhere.
Place a drop cloth under the area where you cut the sequin fabric. I especially had this problem when I made this sequin dress and removed the sequins from the hem. A year later, I'm still looking for sequins (which probably says more about my chores ;).
5) Don't sweat
If you're lazy or just pressed for time, and your sequins are small, you can leave the sequins out of the seam allowance. I know, this might be a bit controversial. It's a personal choice, but I found removing the sequins to be really tedious and not worth the trouble.
I'm dealing with small sequins in a snake pattern, so there's no easy way to remove a bunch at once. For hours, my hands cramped from holding on to the suture remover for too long. If I'm going to be wearing sequins a lot, or for a very important event, I'll probably spend more time removing the sequins. But, actually, I've worn my sequined garments once (or never!) so spending hours removing the sequins and making a mess isn't worth it to me.
6) Don't iron, but iron
The heat from the iron can damage the sequins, but you need to make those seams as flat as possible. If you don't remove the sequins from the seam allowance, it will take a little pressure to flatten them. Sometimes finger pressing will work, but if you need more force, you can use a rolling pin or something similar.
7) Don't sew
Topstitching won't work with sequined fabrics, but since you've included the lining, you can slip stitch the hem to the lining. If your fabric is stretchy, remember to use stretchy hand stitches. Fortunately, I have a tutorial on how to do that here.
